Greece - The Rough Mani

Greece - The Rough Mani

The most fascinating and at the same time roughest part of the Peloponnese is undoubtedly the Mani. Two years ago we couldn't take much time, we "drove over" it in one day. This time we want to look at the middle finger of the hand-shaped peninsula in peace.

In Gythio we find a nice parking space at the harbour, the taverns lit up in the evening sparkle at us with their lights. (We also learn that on weekend nights, the harbour parking spaces are used for testostorone-controlled horsepower action - sleeping: a no-go).

In the morning we set off. Kilometres of serpentines wind along the coast. We go uphill and downhill, through tiny villages with narrow passages. Sometimes we feel as if we are scraping along the whitewashed walls of the houses.

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What is special about the Mani?

It is a barren landscape formed by the foothills of the Taygetos Mountains, where life is said to have been characterised by poverty, displacement and flight since time immemorial. The Mani fascinates us with its craggy rocks, steep mountains and spartan residential towers.

This remote region was a refuge for pirates and outlaws for a long time. But also people from the surroundings of Sparta (Sparti, as they say here!) found protection here from foreign conquerors. The barren but imposing landscape is characterised by an independent culture and a deeply rooted tradition of blood revenge. It's a good thing we don't notice much of that.

Mani is also known for its laments, the Mirologia, and the resistance against the Ottoman occupiers led by Petrobey Mavromichalis from Aeropoli. The Mavromichalis family achieved power and wealth through skilful alliances and courageous decisions. Petros Mavromichalis became the hero of the Greek liberation struggle when he united the clans of Mani and attacked the Ottoman garrison in Kalamata.

Stories of blood revenge and barren land are omnipresent in this harsh region. No matter where we read information about the Mani, barrenness and blood feuds are everywhere. For centuries, warlike disputes between family groups shaped everyday life. The blood feud followed strict rules and only ended when all male members of a clan were incapacitated or the opposing clan was driven out of the village.

The dwellings of the Maniotes (is that how you say it?) were converted into defence towers to protect themselves from hostile neighbours and invading conquerors. Eventually, even the Ottoman occupation was driven out by a blood feud. In 1821, the clans of Mani joined forces to drive the Turkish occupiers from the Peloponnese for good - and they succeeded.

Today, legends and rumours surround the inhabitants of the Mani. Some consider them brutal and deceitful, others hospitable and warm. As we make our own impression of this fascinating region and its people, we can only find good and very friendly things.

The journey through this rugged beauty of Greece is an encounter with the past and the intrepid spirit of its inhabitants. And for us: simply a great time!

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Merci for "travelling with us

We are thinking about taking another break from travelling in the summer and visiting our families in Germany and Switzerland. One of the ideas is to organise a Lecture about our long journey to the Persian Gulf to prepare. If you would like to, what would interest you the most? We will also tell stories here that don't find a place here on the blog. We're thinking of the Bern and Berlin area - simply because we have family there. But other places are also conceivable. Feel free to write to us.

By the way, we are travelling through Iran. It's possible that we won't be writing posts at all or will be late. We first have to see if it works for us. And whether we can even manage to write down all the fantastic impressions in good time.

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