The Gellért Baths, located at the foot of Gellért Hill and part of the famous Gellért Hotel (where we spend the night in the car park with four lanes of dual carriageway), is considered one of Budapest's most important thermal baths. It was built in 1918 and stands out for its interesting architecture, characterised by the use of marble, stucco and tall columns. These elements represent the opulent era of bathing culture at the beginning of the 20th century.
"If you haven't been to a thermal spa, you haven't been to Hungary. Whether you just want to refresh and relax or seek healing in warm water, you should visit at least one Gyógyfürdő during your stay," writes our Viktor Iro in the travel guide.
As soon as we enter the Gellért Baths, our eyes are drawn to the turquoise-coloured Art Nouveau tile mosaics in the ticket hall. These ornate works are characteristic of the entire design of the baths.
We pay just under twenty euros/francs per person and squeeze past quite a few people who are looking for a locker just like us. An empty locker, that is.
The central, octagonal pool, which is covered by a dome, is the centrepiece of the facility. The architecture actually lets in natural light, which would make the atmosphere in the pool special if it were nice outside, perhaps even sunny. But it's definitely not today. Instead, we've chosen a snow and slush day. Because going outside is not our thing today.
The pool landscape of the Gellért Baths is huge and offers different temperatures for different needs. We immediately realise that what we need is the highest temperature. After the last few days of winter frost, we need to warm up body and soul.
We read: "Bathers can gradually increase the temperature of the pools to make the most of the healing effects of the thermal water. Caution is advised, especially in the hottest pools, where the water flows from lion's heads and can reach temperatures of over 40 degrees."
Oh where, we'd rather go straight for the 38-degree pool. Why start with the cold pool?
In addition to the thermal pools, the swimming pool with its glass roof and surrounding gallery is also worth a visit. However, swimming caps are compulsory here. And we don't have them with us. I would love to buy myself a frilly flower bathing cap, but Gerd is against it. And it's going to be different anyway.
As we simmer away in the second furthest pool after about 30 minutes, it suddenly gets restless. The first bathers quickly jump out of the pool and stand helplessly at the edge. I also notice a brown broth suddenly coming out of the jets. We are quickly outside too, somehow disgusting, all the pools suddenly turn brown.
When we inform the supervisors, they are also quite confused, frantically calling all kinds of telephone numbers and meanwhile all the bathers, and there really are a lot of them, are standing at the edge of the pool wrapped in towels.
We look at each other and think to ourselves, if all the people are now streaming into the narrow corridors to the changing rooms, it could take us hours to get changed. So we do what we're good at: make a quick decision and get out of the Gellert pool. A quick shower, eight no, only coffee-brown-black broth comes out here, quickly change into our clothes and shower at Felix.
The attempt to get part of our entrance fee back fails. The brown water is completely normal, after all, the water in and around Hungary is simply brown due to the big snowmelt of the last few days. That's just the way it is. I see. Well then.
Somehow okay, somehow whatever. We were really happy guests in the Gellert pool for 30 minutes. The warm water was good for us, as was the atmosphere.
PS: We assumed that photography is not permitted in the bath. So, of course, we got into the water without a camera or smartphone. But that wasn't the case, there was an incredible amount of photography (and we were always in the pictures without being asked) and somehow it didn't feel good at all. That's why I've licensed a few pictures from professional photographers to give you an insight into the beauty here too.
Merci for "travelling with us
We are thinking about taking another break from travelling in the summer and visiting our families in Germany and Switzerland. One of the ideas is to organise a Lecture about our long journey to the Persian Gulf to prepare. If you would like to, what would interest you the most? We will also tell stories here that don't find a place here on the blog. We're thinking of the Bern and Berlin area - simply because we have family there. But other places are also conceivable. Feel free to write to us.
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