We arrive late and it suddenly gets dark here in Iran. Quite early, around half past five, we're driving through the neighbourhood and from one moment to the next it gets dark. But really dark.
We pass the payment point at the entrance to Abyaneh, park in the museum's spacious car park and fall into bed, dead tired. It's just after 7 and we're asleep. A topsy-turvy world!
The rain pours down on the roof all night and we are glad not to be more in the desert to be. What a muddy ride!
At half past eight in the morning, the sun suddenly starts to shine. Let's get out: we read that we will only have two hours of sun today.
Abyaneh is a tiny, ancient village at the foot of the beautiful Karkas Mountains and is famous for its picturesque houses made of mud bricks, which have a reddish colour. This colour comes from the iron oxide contained in the soil and the bricks.
The people of Abyaneh preserve their traditional dress, language and customs, giving the village a vibrant cultural atmosphere (we don't see many of them though, are we too early or in the low season?). The women often wear colourful, hand-woven scarves and skirts, while the men are known for their traditional baggy trousers and long coats. Over tea, we learn that the trousers here are also called "family trousers". Everyone in the family fits into them.
The village has probably been inhabited since the time of the Sassanids, who ruled from 224 to 651 AD. The surrounding landscape with its mountains and lush vegetation provides a breathtaking backdrop for the village.
We walk through the village for an hour or two, buy fresh, warm bread and drink tea on the street. Other tourists take the opportunity to invite us for tea. And we learn that Nabât-e Saferâni, the saffron sugar that is sold on sticks everywhere in Iran and is reminiscent of our rock candy, is a panacea. It helps with stomach aches, headaches, lovesickness and joint pain. You just have to firmly believe in it.
Later in the car we laugh, we actually believe a lot. And when it comes to remedies, we are more into alternative than conventional medicine. But we still don't quite want to believe that sugar helps with all ailments.
Tea with Nabât-e Saferâni, the saffron sugar
Nabât-e Saferâni, the saffron sugar at the bazaar in Tabriz.
Merci for "travelling with us
We are thinking about taking another break from travelling in the summer and visiting our families in Germany and Switzerland. One of the ideas is to organise a Lecture about our long journey to the Persian Gulf to prepare. If you would like to, what would interest you the most? We will also tell stories here that don't find a place here on the blog. We're thinking of the Bern and Berlin area - simply because we have family there. But other places are also conceivable. Feel free to write to us.
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I don't think it's just the sugar but Chai Nabat, the home remedy for everything. At least that's the result of my field study. And saffron should not be underestimated as a medicinal plant! Chai Nabat is like camomile tea and honey milk in one. Saffron is generally a great souvenir.
I'm not that fond of saffron myself, but yes, you could take it with you. But where?
However, I also don't know whether all the sugar cancels out all the healing effects of the other ingredients.
But: you also have to believe in it, I have learnt.
Kind regards - Heike
A hot cup of tea never hurts.
Saffron is of course a matter of taste. I learnt to love it in Iran because I mainly ate saffron and rosewater ice cream during Ramadan.
However, it is currently being scientifically investigated for topics such as depression or ADD. I find it exciting, but of course one tea is not enough.