We have learnt that there is not much going on in the mornings in Iran. The evenings are usually long and the days start late. So we are all alone in the Imam Mosque, also known as Masjed-e Shah. We pay the usual million entrance fee again, which is probably around 2 francs.
And then it happens: We are completely overwhelmed by this beauty. We stand in the huge entrance hall as quiet as mice, marvelling at the mosaics and the (hand-painted?) colourful and enchantingly patterned tiles.
If the workmen weren't noisily erecting or dismantling the scaffolding on the dome, we could enjoy the peace and quiet. Okay, we have to do that sometimes. And today we are learning "active listening".
Hundreds of thousands of tiles and millions upon millions of bricks were brought in to cover the material requirements. The mosque was completed in 1630. The turquoise dome itself is over 50 metres high, the minarets around 40 metres.
If you look at the large, rectangular square, the Meydan-e Naqsh-e Jahan, the mosque stands at one end of it. However, only the entrance is arranged geometrically to the square, the mosque behind it is offset at an angle (you can even see it from the square), as the prayer halls naturally had to be orientated towards Mecca.
What particularly fascinates us are the floral and tendril ornaments and the artistic Koranic inscriptions by the calligrapher Ali Reza. I am completely in love with the beautiful Persian calligraphy because I remember my typography teacher, who also came from Iran. Why didn't I ask him about it back then? Oh, I was probably too young and really had other things on my mind.
I'm still reading the guidebook: "The art of colour and ornamentation is not just an end in itself; the architect Ali Akbar Esfahani also wanted to convey a religious guiding principle. When worshippers enter the mosque, the colourful interior walls should give them an idea of what awaits them in paradise. The lavish splendour stands for the "lavish riches in the eternal garden".
We let ourselves drift, and at some point I just sit there. I am overcome by a wonderful sense of calm. I would love to stay here for hours and follow all the patterns one by one with my eyes.
But as it is, sometimes things turn out differently. The first group of travellers comes in, is shown around at a rapid pace and the photos are taken in a race. Selfie with the mosque, selfie with the dome, selfie with us (after all, we are also a highlight for at least half of the tour group).
But there are two sides to everything, here's the good one: suddenly the tour guide stands in the middle of the hall and starts singing. Even the scaffolding workers stop and we can only marvel at the wonderful acoustics. What a beautiful gift. And what a lovely way to end the day in this venerable place.
Merci for "travelling with us
We are thinking about taking another break from travelling in the summer and visiting our families in Germany and Switzerland. One of the ideas is to organise a Lecture about our long journey to the Persian Gulf to prepare. If you would like to, what would interest you the most? We will also tell stories here that don't find a place here on the blog. We're thinking of the Bern and Berlin area - simply because we have family there. But other places are also conceivable. Feel free to write to us.
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