A severe weather warning for Morocco makes us stare at the weather map with concern. A large area of low pressure over southern Spain, which is travelling south, is threatening our last few weeks in this sun-kissed country. We sincerely hope that the weather will remain favourable.
But if you want to head north, you have to overcome a few passes. Warnings of heavy rain in the mountains and snow at higher altitudes make us unsure. Which is less favourable: rain or snow? Rain here can easily lead to landslides and washouts due to the poor quality of the roads. We would prefer snow, as we are well equipped with winter tyres and snow chains.
So I navigate my loved one over a pass before the snow sets in. We park at some lake, in some inconspicuous parking bay at the end of some cul-de-sac. We sleep for a wonderfully long time and wonder why there are so many cars driving back and forth all the time. There's nothing here! Well, almost nothing, because when we drive to the end of the cul-de-sac, we are amazed: a luxury hotel in a class of its own.
We quickly sit in the lobby and let ourselves be spoilt. We must savour such a treasure!
But even the greatest luxury gets boring (for us) at some point. So we head further into the mountains, as it is only raining a little today. In Ifrane - or more precisely in the surrounding mountains - we are enticed by a special spectacle: the Barbary macaques. Ifrane National Park is home to the largest cedar and holm oak forests in Morocco, as well as these monkeys.
As soon as we arrive in the forest, we see the monkeys. Several are lurking by the roadside. Barbary macaques feed mainly on leaves, fruit, seeds and insects. Their diet varies depending on the season and the availability of food. Or they are clever and wait for vehicles with foreign licence plates, knowing that it is peanut time!
As soon as we get out of our Felix to take a closer look at the monkeys, they jump straight onto the roof, onto the mirror, hold on to the hem of our trousers and look at us with loyal eyes. Their gaze says only one thing: "Nuts! Otherwise we'll starve!" They beg very gently for the nuts, but afterwards they argue fiercely with their conspecifics! They keep looking sternly at our Felix, after all, there is freshly bought, almost warm bread on the table. Of course, that's something they would love to have. But they don't get it, for two reasons: It's unhealthy for them and we wouldn't have anything for dinner.
So we enjoy the monkeys, but realise that we have rarely parked stupidly - directly under a monkey tree. A perfect landing spot! As we drive on, we have to deal with monkeys on the windscreen, the solar panels and the mirrors. But everything is less bad than expected. As soon as the engine starts, they know that these tourists won't be handing out any more nuts. But the next vehicle has already arrived...
We continue to the oldest cedar in the park, the famous Gouraud cedar. It belongs to the Atlas cedar species (Cedrus atlantica) and was one of the most impressive and best-known cedars in North Africa until it died. Around the cedar, which is now just a dead relic (and therefore doesn't really deserve the title of "oldest" in our eyes), there is a place for photos and many tourists. Okay, it's low season, but a few are still there.
The much bigger adventure, however, was getting there. Instead of taking the normal road like everyone else, my sat nav once again had some really funny ideas. It led us further and further into the forest. A forest path turned into a muddy track, briefly interrupted by boulders and pebbles. First kilometres of hairpin bends up, then kilometres of hairpin bends down. We were a little surprised that we were only met by hikers. Until we arrive at the old cedar tree and realise that we are following the hiking trail. Only the other way round.
Gerd is more than annoyed (and tense, which is obvious), I am disappointed by the old cedar tree and together we are stunned that the hiking trail ends at a wall that Felix cannot pass. I'll never forget the look on Gerd's face when he realises that we have to go back the way we came.
But I don't give up that easily, because the dealers here also have to cart their stuff around somehow. And one of the traders was kind enough to let us drive past his shop and into the forest. By taking the bumpy forest track alternative, we eventually reach the road. Where, wonder of wonders, we also met a lot of cars. We made it!
So, what have we learnt? Monkeys are funny, so are satnavs. And there's always a way!
Merci for "travelling with us
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