Our journey takes us to Fès, a city that is not only home to one of the oldest universities in the world, the al-Qarawīyīn, but is also one of the four royal cities of Morocco - alongside MarrakechMeknès and Rabat. These cities have a special historical significance as they have served as the capital of Morocco throughout history. The founding of Fez was the result of a father-son dispute, the details of which have slipped our minds. Apparently we had more important things to do.
Because first we have to get into the city - a truly adventurous idea on a Friday evening during Lent. The access roads are multi-lane and completely congested. We are right in the middle of it. We quickly learn that three lanes can be turned into six as soon as there is even a millimetre of space. Cars squeeze into every little gap, and nobody seems to be bothered by the fact that this Tetris-like traffic chaos means that nothing can move forward. Instead of thinking for themselves, people honk their horns - the apparent panacea that doesn't work. We are stuck in a traffic jam for hours, trying to negotiate four roundabouts and maybe two kilometres in total.
Next to us, an ambulance howls incessantly, in front of us a bus pushes forwards millimetre by millimetre. Nothing works any more. Make way for the ambulance? Impossible. Everything is jammed. Gerd remains relaxed, while I am increasingly annoyed by the honking horns and sirens. At some point, we can only laugh about this strange, pointless traffic behaviour, which seems like something from another world. (And since we don't eat or drink anything during the day here during Ramadan, it's obvious that I wouldn't be thinking quite logically either if I went on a daytime fast).
But eventually the traffic jam clears and we roll onto a parking space just 30 metres from the medina. We decide to stay here for the time being. We settle in, relax and take our first stroll through what is said to be the largest medina in Morocco.
Of course, it is also written large and clear on our foreheads: "Tourists, rich tourists, ready to be made fun of!" No sooner have we been addressed than we are on the hook. We should know better by now, but the traffic had probably robbed us of our wits. So we let a self-appointed guide lead us through the alleyways, only to visit one of the famous tanneries and dye works a little later. The guide has hardly any information, but he knows the way. (Incidentally, GoogleMaps would have shown us the way too).
After visiting a small tannery, we observe something interesting: I could act as an authority here if I wanted to. And it works like this (as I knew it from other Arab countries, but had forgotten)Gerd as a man is of course asked for money, he has to act. He, the calm one, was persistent, but so calm that this is taken as another invitation to act. I realise that Gerd is starting to get annoyed and reacts in a slightly unfriendly way. That's exactly what we want to avoid.
So my part begins: with firm woman-man eye contact, which is rather unusual, I say very clearly that this is the last price. Maintain eye contact, be clear and radiate self-confidence (despite being completely annoyed and not knowing what the right thing to do is). Once again we realise: When women make a clear, distinct and friendly announcement, the younger men in particular are immediately quiet and leave us alone. Hmm, is this a "mum's always right" thing? We'll never know. But it's exciting. I'm going to test it out a few more times, because my field research needs evidence, of course. And it works every time.
Now we stroll through the alleyways again. Due to Ramadan, many restaurants are closed, at least in the evening hours around sunset. Later in the evening, we find ourselves in a small corner restaurant, order our usual Moroccan soup, our harira, and are more than satisfied.
Due to the storm warning, we decide to stay here for a week. We are sheltered from the wind on a gentle slope, so the rain can flow underneath us and flooding is not to be expected. And the best thing is that in just a few seconds we are in the medina, which offered all the things we were looking for - museums, mosques, Koran schools, strolling, shopping and, last but not least, cafés.
Merci for "travelling with us
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