Kesra, the highest village in Tunisia, is a place steeped in history. At 1200 metres above sea level, it offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
The village is famous for its traditional houses built close together. One attraction is said to be the waterfall that pours through the mountains and offers a beautiful sight. But we try in vain to see the beauty of the waterfall. The marketing copywriters must have been a little over-motivated.
A real sight, however, is the Byzantine citadel, which is enthroned on a hill and offers a breathtaking view of the city and its surroundings. We take a walk through the citadel, which is still inhabited, buy delicious herb bread from a Berber woman and consider taking a break here for a few days to work.
Via a colourful Berber staircase, the path leads us up to the cliff edge with an impressive view and we know: Yes, we are staying.
As the sun slowly turns the horizon orange, we drive our Felix up adventurous switchbacks (and suspect that these roads were actually only built for 4×4s and the scooters that are common everywhere).
Once we reach the top, we shelter against a cemetery wall with a view into the distance. And that, we realise late at night, is a good idea. Because the wind is not to be underestimated up here!
No sooner have we stopped than it calls out next to us in Bear German: "Hello, what are Bernese doing here?" And then: "Welcome to my homeland.
A Tunisian welcomes us, proudly tells us about his city and at the same time that he is only here on holiday, actually he lives and works in Bern. Whether we have enough to eat, whether we need anything, whether we need help. Phone numbers are quickly exchanged and we are once again stunned by so much hospitality.
But that's not all, as we discover a little later. His brother arrives half an hour later with a bag full of food: fresh bread, a huge bowl of couscous with vegetables and meat, harissa and grilled peppers (paprika, for us Germans).
As we unpack the bag, we think that there will probably be 5 to 10 more people, that's how much was brought to us, but these are probably Tunisian crowds that we will probably never get used to.
The next day we work diligently with the best view and lots of visitors from turkeys, sheep, goats and chickens. In the evening Gerd brings the clean dishes down to town to our patron. He is already expected at the door: The men just swap bags: empty dishes for full ones. Today we have grilled fish, vegetables, another form of Berber bread and French fries. And harissa, of course, right?
I set the table, we eat our present (our own things in the fridge will have to wait!) and laugh including tears of joy. So beautiful!
There is a knock at the door, it is the brother again, he brings us a kilo of mountain honey. We would like to give him something in return, but he doesn't allow it. "Bienvenue en Tunisie", he says with a smile and rattles off on his scooter.
Can someone pinch us? Can this all be true? We are sitting in our Felix, at the most beautiful sunset in a country full of surprises and just today we are thinking again: Good decision, this travelling!
As so often, we thank them by WhatsApp, and a voice message comes back with the following content: "You are always welcome, also with friends and family, I'd love to! And if anything happens, even if I'm already back in Switzerland, get in touch, my family will take care of it and help you! Have a good trip and "Schön, sid dir da gsi!"
Thank you Tunisia, thank you the unknown Tunisian bearer, whom we would so like to meet again when we are in Bern, to thank him once more in person.
We will always remember Kesra. Because of the citadel? Hm, maybe. Because of the colourful staircase, yes, that's possible. Because of the people? Definitely!
Merci for "travelling with us
We are thinking about taking another break from travelling in the summer and visiting our families in Germany and Switzerland. One of the ideas is to organise a Lecture about our long journey to the Persian Gulf to prepare. If you would like to, what would interest you the most? We will also tell stories here that don't find a place here on the blog. We're thinking of the Bern and Berlin area - simply because we have family there. But other places are also conceivable. Feel free to write to us.
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Dear Heike, dear Gerd,
THANKS!
Every morning I am happy about your reports, about your positive thinking!
Today I think, how do we treat foreigners???? It's often so sad.
Tunisia is a beautiful country, in 1981(!) we also travelled through the country for a week, to the oases, to Roman sites like Sbeitla and Dougga; in later years we made excursions to Tunis (you should not miss the Bardo Museum), El Djem or Kairuon in Hammamet.
But lastly, in Zarzis, we were just in the beautiful hotel complex, really relaxing, pampering - 3 weeks is ok for "reindeer", but that's enough.
Thank you again for something beautiful every morning and love from chilly Berlin...oh yes, what I wanted to say...I wouldn't like the low temperatures at night/morning in Felix!
Dear Sabine!
Thank you very much for your lines, which always make us very happy! ❣️
Reindeer in connection with you sounds kind of weird, but yes, even recreation has to be sometimes!
And yes, this Tunisia is just great, we didn't know so much about the country ourselves and are now grateful for the wonderful time here.
And the thing about foreigners, yes, that's a thing. These thoughts keep running through my head. And we promise ourselves to always be warm and welcoming to guests and visitors.
Best wishes!
Gerd & Heike
Hmmmm, that looks very tasty! 😋
But don't you actually eat meat?
Yes, people abroad are different somehow.
Friendly, helpful, open and not as selfish as the Germans.
It's good that not everyone is in such a bad mood in my country.
Otherwise I would have fled long ago 😉 .
Kind regards
from Racheli
Dear Rachel
Yes, that was very tasty. No, I don't eat meat, Gerd does.
So it was a good fit.
We also feel that about the different mentality everywhere in the world. And yes, unfortunately it is different in Germany and Switzerland. Within the family and with friends it's absolutely identical, but with strangers?
We firmly resolve that we will also do good for the visitors to our home. we have, but if we ever have a base again (who knows?) then by all means!
Best wishes "from down there"!