Längerer Beitrag – schneller Überblick:
The search for a parking space
Let's start at the very beginning: with the search for a parking space. We remember: we have to park our Felix somewhere so that we can make the lovely train journey. And it's clear that we'll be without him for at least the whole day, maybe even two days.
We find a spot on the side of the road in front of an insurance agency and a public library. The insurance agent promises to keep an eye on Felix (although we don't think anything will happen - the Iranians are much more anxious than we are, we realise). We stroll through the city in the evening, I buy a few more fabrics in a fabric shop - and I'm already looking forward to unpacking my sewing machines again when I get home.
Back at the Felix - we want to leave early, our Train leaves as early as 6 a.m. - a family stands in front of our car and invites us for tea and biscuits. I don't really want any more, but Gerd says yes, let's go. Since I rely 100 % on Gerd's intuition, I take off my nightdress again, throw on some iran-suitable clothes and we're sitting in the living room of another large family.
The invitation
Word seems to have got round that there are guests here. More and more family members are arriving. It's late, there's tea, the usual sweets, fruit and nuts. We are photographed and filmed. The landlord is a well-known (and unknown to us) singer from television and his family is delighted to see us. The young women in particular, aged between 14 and 18, speak good English and ask and ask. We laugh a lot, there is singing and laughter and once again we can hardly believe that we are sitting here.
Dinner together
Of course we exchange numbers, without WhatsApp and Instagram it would be much more difficult here. And we're promised that we'll come to dinner after the train journey. We don't realise yet that we'll be sitting on the train for 12 hours. But what the heck, the evening after our train journey, we ring the doorbell (we are now standing with Felix 10 metres away, right in front of our hosts' door), are allowed to use the in-house shower and dinner is served. We eat together, it's a real feast. Today too, more and more family members arrive, we talk about our train journey, they talk about their lives. And again the young women ask. What's it like, do you have to get married? Who chooses the partners and what professions those with the highest social status would have.
We swallow: Where to start? After all, the parents are sitting there too and we don't want to cause any stress: So we start almost every sentence with "In our country..." and often emphasise how important it is to recognise the different cultures. But I stick to the truth: no, the parents don't choose for us. And yes, we do marry mostly out of love. No, in our country you are not ostracised if you are single for any length of time, yes, you can get divorced without fear of being completely excluded from the family. And no, I don't know which profession has the highest social status. For us, it was only ever important that we did what we enjoyed and, above all, what we could imagine doing for years.
Then I ask them if they feel that Gerd and I are unhappy. No, not at all. We'd like to have a life like that too! Well, and we didn't both study for a doctorate, we have simple jobs, but they give us satisfaction. We help people and do our work well. We persevere and love what we do. No, no one would probably look up to us at a party if we said we were a graphic designer and an IT specialist. But you know what? It doesn't matter, something else counts for us.
It's all about the money
It's often about money. And I believe that status is also linked to this worldwide. And yes, power too, somehow. We know that, of course, precisely because we come from a country where it's not entirely unimportant. And of course we are fully aware that it's always easier to describe money as unimportant and ill-making when you have enough of it to make a living.
And yet: every single conversation is about money. How much you earn, what your car costs. What a doctor earns in Switzerland, what a teacher earns. (But we have no idea about that and have to google it). It's also about the fact that you can hardly save any money here because the Iranian currency is worth less and less every day and the value melts away in your accounts every day, so to speak. You have to save dollars or euros. Maybe property or gold. Anything else would be pointless.
We understand all of this and yet we try to gently point out that you should not subject your whole life to filthy lucre. To create moments of joy that don't cost money. Otherwise you become a slave to your ideas, your greed for money, your longing for material things ... Everyone nods eagerly, but we believe that hardly anyone understands this. How could they, in a country where there are hardly any opportunities or a future? At some point we shrug our shoulders, don't know what to do and say so. Our origins are so different.
But: I have digressed.
City tour Dezful
We are picked up in the morning and Hussein, a brother of the singer, takes a whole day to show us around his city. We drive to the river (it's much cooler here and we enjoy the fresh air), visit a shrine and drive over all the bridges in the city. We learn a lot about the city and the country's bathing culture in a hammam museum.
We drive to the buffalo farm and stroll through the arts and crafts bazaar and buy sweets to break our fast in the evening. Mind you, Hussein is fasting, it's still Ramazanand still provides us with food and drink. Simply unbelievable.
At some point we all get tired, the day has been full of experiences and we would actually like to lie down. No problem, tea, sweets, fruit and of course a late lunch are already waiting for us at Hussein's family home. It's unbelievable that the family is fasting and still sits down with us!
One of the daughters clears her room and we are allowed to lie down for a nap. It only takes a few minutes and we are fast asleep. When there is a knock at the door hours (!) later, we are shocked to realise how long we have been asleep. Apparently the last few days have really taken their toll on us.
Music school & party afterwards
After a refreshing cup of tea, the musician brother takes us to his music school, where we are allowed to watch the piano students having lessons. Personally, I think this puts a lot of pressure on the children, but everyone involved somehow doesn't care. And: we enjoy the pieces that we don't know. And, above all, that the children are being musically trained here. What would we give today if we had learnt to play an instrument in our childhood? Would have, would have bicycle chain.
As soon as the last pupil has left the house, the journey continues. To a sister and her family. The family is gathered here again, as are many of the neighbours. We realise that we have come into a more affluent family here. You notice this not only in the furniture, the drinks and the clothes. It's also in the "made" faces of the women. But what unites all the families we meet is that it doesn't matter whether we are sitting on an old carpet or on highly polished armchairs: The warmth, the hospitality is the same everywhere. Simply marvellous. You could become addicted to it.
Our singer performs, we dance, laugh, sing, eat, drink and celebrate being together. What a great time here in Andimeshk and Dezful!
At 3 a.m., when the party comes to an end, we are driven to our Felix, on the way we stop at an ice cream parlour (at 3 a.m. and we are not the only guests there!) and drink vanilla ice cream with freshly squeezed carrot juice for the first time, which tastes really delicious.
Dead tired, completely exhilarated and happy, we fall into bed. And look forward to tomorrow: nature, mountains, nothing, no sound, no music, no conversations, no invitations, no distractions. Just mountains and nature and sorting out our thoughts.
And all we wanted to do three days ago was look for a car park!
Photos: We took a lot of photos here too, but I make sure that it doesn't harm the family. That's why there aren't photos of every day. Sure, right?
Merci for "travelling with us
Our first lectures in Switzerland are planned. Others in Germany could follow. We'll see. We would love to take you into the Persian world somewhere in western Germany and also in the Berlin area. We are still looking for venues. If you know anything, please write to us.
Lecture & Persian tea time Camels, cultures & many contrasts Life-pure travelling with the camper through mysterious Persia
Two dates:21.06.24 or 28.06.24; 7 pm Muri/Bern 21 or 28 June 2024 - start 7 pm, doors open at 6:45 pm RoomZoom - Thunstrasse 162 - 3074 Muri b. Bern
We are happy about 20 CHF per person. Kids are free of charge.Please register by e-mail: andrea.kormann@dakor.ch
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