Tabriz is known worldwide for its carpets. The quality of these carpets is determined by the number of knots per 7 × 7 cm (Raj): More than 50 knots are considered excellent, 35-50 knots mediocre. In addition to the number of knots, the variety of colours (over 40 different colours) and the use of high-quality silk for certain parts of the carpet and for the fringes (nagh) are also indicators of quality. A significant difference to machine-made carpets is the limited colour palette (maximum 10 colours) and the visible single-coloured auxiliary threads that connect the machine-knotted knots.
The best carpets in terms of quality and design come from Tabriz and Isfahan, where famous carpet weavers use only natural colours. The production of large carpets can take several years, which is reflected in the exorbitant prices. Other carpet centres such as Isfahan measure the knots per 1 × 1 cm. There, some carpets are woven entirely from silk. In Tabriz, on the other hand, wool is used almost exclusively, which results in greater durability.
As we stroll through the bazaar and consider whether we want to buy one of these long flatbreads, we are approached by Nasser, who speaks seven languages, including German. He has a tourist office right here in the bazaar, a state-run one, as he says. We are already sitting in his office, drinking tea and being provided with a city map and information. If we need help anywhere in the country, here is his number.
His brother takes us into the world of carpets. We visit a wool and silk dyeing factory. We would never have thought that there was an underworld in this bazaar. So we climb down steep stairs and watch how wool is dyed. How carpets are woven. How the carpets are then shorn and, above all, how the relief carpets famous for Tabriz are "carved" with scissors. We learn how the carpets are mended if something breaks or how they are corrected if they are woven too loosely.
After two - or was it more? - hours we're beaming like honey-cake horses. What an excursion into the world of carpets. I briefly consider whether we shouldn't have a Persian carpet like this in our Felix. Gerd, who can read minds, says with his usual calmness: "No, we don't need it." And that's the end of the matter. Even if a small spark of desire continues to smoulder inside me. Let's see if I can keep the embers alive.
Merci for "travelling with us
We are thinking about taking another break from travelling in the summer and visiting our families in Germany and Switzerland. One of the ideas is to organise a Lecture about our long journey to the Persian Gulf to prepare. If you would like to, what would interest you the most? We will also tell stories here that don't find a place here on the blog. We're thinking of the Bern and Berlin area - simply because we have family there. But other places are also conceivable. Feel free to write to us.
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